Going After the Springtime Bass
By Chuck Boso

Trees are starting to turn green again and the birds are singing. These are signs that spring time has started to roll in and we are eager to get back on the water. Some of us braved the cold temperatures and never put the poles in the garage. But some of us will be a bit rusty when heading back to the lakes. Let’s spend a little time refreshing our memory on how to approach these bass now that things are warming up.
Like it or not, there are certain ways to approach bass during the various seasons. How do we as fishermen know when the bass are hungry and biting? As anglers, we have come to know that bass will be biting when the water has started warming up. In the sport of bass fishing there is a fine line between the winter and spring seasons. This can best be defined by discussing one important factor: water temperature. Fishermen have toyed with their own version of science for years in an attempt to figure out our prey. Most have come to the conclusion that it is of utmost importance for us to understand water temperature. For most part, water temps follows a cyclical factor. Warm temperatures fall as winter approaches, and then start to rise again with the start of spring.
Fish are smarter than we think. Just as we don’t enjoy being out in the extreme cold, neither do they. Bass routinely will not become aggressive until water temps rise above 55 degrees. During the spring months, larger bass become more sensitive to changes in the water temperature. Peak feeding in the spring generally hits when water temperatures rise into the 60s. Many fishermen have learned that a level of 60 degrees is the temperature that usually brings larger female bass into the shallow water. This is the period that begins spawning activity that is usually linked with the beginning of spring. This is why most anglers consider spring as the official start of fishing season. However, we should also note that while it may be “spring” conditions in one portion of a lake, it might not have reached that point in other areas. Throughout an early spring day, water temps can rise 4 to 5 degrees before reaching a peak of sometimes 75 degrees. Often, fishermen discover that when they go back to some of the spots they tried in the morning, the bass had now moved up into warmer water. Science has shown us that subtle rises in temperature as small as a couple degrees can get bass moving. However, the more distinct the warming period is, the more the bass will be stimulated. When this starts to occur, fishermen should pay close attention to the surface water temperature only. You can do this with a simple hand held thermometer. The important thing to remember when fishing during the early spring transition is to be patient. Anglers might not find bass at every spot on the water. However, when they do discover a good spot, odds have it that there will be several biters in there!
When fishing on northern lakes, anglers usually catch most of their early spring bass when fishing from bays and banks along the northern most shorelines. This is because these parts of the lake are the first to warm up. They also receive more sun light throughout the day. The riprap areas are also prone to holding the heat due to the large number of rocks. For this reason, these areas can be very productive on sunny days.
Another popular spots for early spring bass is old weed beds, especially lily pad fields. Usually, if there is any form of cover with deep water nearby, these areas have a better chance of harboring big bass.
A lot of anglers rely on the knowledge that many early season bass can be caught using only a small selection of lures. My personal choice is to fish crank baits during late winter and early spring. When I find the area where the fish are moving through during the temperature change, I fish the area very carefully. In my opinion, the crank bait is the best choice for helping find these transition areas. However, some die-hards feel the best bait to start with might be a 3/8 oz jig with your favorite plastic pork trailer attached. This is the better choice due to the fact that this time of year bass desire big meals while preparing for the upcoming spawn.
There are many that feel the need to use other weapons like the jig-n-pig in 1/4 and 3/8 oz. sizes or a six inch worm with either a straight or curly tail depending on what they are biting. Working these jigs on shallow flats, ledges and over drop-offs can be very effective. Of course many of us always fall back on the old faithful 1/4 oz. spinner bait with a single blade. When water temperatures vary from 50 to 55 degrees, I try pitching the worm and spinner bait to change things up. If I have already located areas that I know the bass use to move to the shallows, I may incorporate a plastic worm. I usually start with a 5” Texas rig to test the effectiveness.
There are many spots on various lakes that have proved fruitful over the years. Most lakes have areas near or around retaining walls. The best way to approach this area would be to cast a deep-diving crank bait parallel to the wall. Try different retrievals before giving up. They often want to take a look at things before making a decision to bite. If aggressive bass refuse to strike, navigate your boat away from the wall and try a suspending jerk bait straight in front of the structure. This usually triggers the stubborn ones. With no luck there you may want to move on to another popular area; the fallen or existing trees. Slowly retrieve a spinner bait the full length of the tree. Concentrate on making sure the lure bangs around against the tree to get their attention. This usually draws the hawgs from under the shaded areas.
Some lakes or reservoirs have several flooded road beads around. This is where you should break out the crank baits for sure. Running a deep-diver parallel to the road bed should produce some interest. If not, try casting to the top of the road first. Then bump the lure through the rocks or stumps on either side gently to avoid any snags.
Many anglers out there tend to ignore the rivers. But if you give it a try you’ll soon learn that they can hold big numbers of quality bass. Early spring is your best chance at hooking a big river largemouth or smallmouth. River bars are a great source of food for bass as well as a welcome break from the current. At this time of year they are checking gravel, sand, or mud bars in a river for food to fatten up prior to spawning. We have come to realize that most bars have some form of cover such as stumps, rocks or the occasion downed tree that floats in. This cover is often a haven for big bass. In rivers with a strong current, bass will cling to the side of the cover that is away from the current. They wont move far to strike your lure so your casts need to be accurate.
A swirl of sorts will often form at one end of the bar. Bait fish that were injured upstream at dams or power plants are often sucked into these swirls. Bass are a somewhat intelligent species and do not want to re-enter the current. Therefore, they eagerly wait to pounce on the baitfish and your lure should fit right into the mix. Your spinner baits and crank baits are probably the best choice on river bars. But if the bait fish start breaking the surface, you might go to top water popper.
These are just a few of the many tips and techniques that most of us have come to know over the years. Some of this may be old news to you veterans. However, for the newcomers to the tournament trail, I mentioned a thing or two you might not have heard that will help you out on tournament day. Whatever the case, tight lines and happy fishing!

Keeping Your Rig in Shape During the Off Season
By Chuck Boso

The winds have kicked up and the thermometer is rattling. Temperatures are dropping more everyday. The time of year has arrived that makes us all question our dedication to the sport of fishing. High winds and single digit temperatures tend to weaken the strongest of men. Winter gives us intimate feelings for our recliners and televisions instead of a freezing day on the lake. Not to worry my friends, there are still several things you can do that will keep you in the running for that district title and a shot at the championship.
During a recent tournament, I noticed a slight vibration when using my favorite rod and reel. I paid enough attention to notice that the vibration was only present when using that particular rig. I continued using the rig with a bit of aggravation and planned on addressing it later. Upon arriving home, I retreated to my secluded spot (the garage) and began to inspect my equipment. I checked the rod and reel from tip to handle and got more aggravated when I could not find any problems. Then I looked even closer and discovered a bent line guide. The porcelain was cracked as well. As I discovered this, it occurred to me that I had not properly checked out my equipment. As I looked further I noticed how dirty my reel was. I had disregarded the care of my equipment.
Let’s think for a moment about our fellow Americans that are fighting for our freedom in the sands of Iraq and Afghanistan. They have no choice on whether or not to fight on a given day so they stay on top of their game daily. Part of being a good soldier is to keep their battlefield equipment in top operating condition. If these soldiers can do it daily, we as fishermen can handle doing it during our slow season.
Let’s think about this for a moment. We all own trucks or SUVs that we use to haul our bass boats to the lake. If we waited until something broke before we serviced our vehicles we would end up watching fishing on TV more than participating on the water. Though not as much as a vehicle, many of us tend to spend a great deal of money on fishing equipment, especially our rods and reels. When you are depending on this small piece of equipment to get you into the money on tournament day, a little preventive maintenance can and will go a long way.
On those days when it’s pouring or the temperature is below 20 degrees many of us tend to sit and wish we were on the water. More than once I’ve pulled out the tackle box and inventoried everything inside. Obviously things hadn’t changed since the last time I was on the water but it always makes me feel better. Why not use this extra time to get ready for the good fishing weather.
More than once while growing up, my mother would have to hound me about cleaning up my mess. My wife does the same thing to this day. Common sense dictates that this same practice should apply to our passion of fishing. Let’s face it; we spend all day on the water, pulling lures through muck and weeds. We occasionally drop our rig in the water or dip the tip in a shallow area to retrieve our lucky lure. Just as Mom made us do with our belongings growing up, we should always clean up our rod and reel after use.
Many bass fishermen are under the impression that since we fish in fresh water, we should not have to clean our reels very often if at all. The truth is that spraying off our reel after each use can extend its life span. This can be accomplished with a garden hose or even in the shower if your wife is out of the house. Make sure to wash off the under side of the level wind system on a conventional reel. By turning it upside down you expose the worm which is essential to smooth operation. Using fresh water is a crucial step in reel care and maintenance. This easy step will add many productive years to the useful life of your fishing reel.
Keeping common sense with us, let’s all agree that if your reel is not displaying any mechanical problems, you should only need to lubricate it near the handle where the knob actually meets the handle. Do not take off the cover to the gearbox unless you are totally prepared to disassemble, clean, and lubricate your reel. Then you have to be ready to put it all back together. Conventional reels with spool shaft bushings at the bushing can be lubricated as well. Usually, conventional reels with ball bearings that are used under normal conditions can go for years without re-greasing and should only be re-greased as part of a professional reel servicing process. Any lubrication beyond what I have mentioned should be left in the hands of a professional and should only be needed about every five years depending on use
Premature reel failure is often the result of foreign matter that has made its way to the inside of the gearbox of your reel. Therefore, cleaning the inside of your reel is also important. Part of this process includes applying a light coat of reel grease or oil. For the outside moving parts such as the level wind on a bait caster or the bail on a spinning reel, you should use light weight machine oil. Use only lubricants made for fishing reel maintenance. Garcia Reel Lube is excellent for extremely hot or cold conditions. It also continues to work long after applied. Other products can cause more damage than good. Never spray your reel with penetrating oil or WD-40. Although sometimes the fish think otherwise, we are all intelligent sportsmen. Just as its name says, penetrating oil penetrates to the threads of your screws and possibly loosens them. It also creates a situation where badly needed grease is washed away from places where it is needed. These types of products cause fine grit and other foreign matter to reach places that will damage your reel. The outer surface of your reel can also become sticky which attracts even more grit and foreign matter.
If you have made this mistake and realize it while reading this, do not panic. This is not a lost cause. It is highly recommended that you clean your reel with a solution of warm water and dish detergent. Use a soft bristle brush such as an old toothbrush or a bottle brush to remove any excess oil or debris. Then you can simply rinse it off with plain water.
When your done with the messy stuff, you can give the rest of your reel the once over. I commonly have a couple of small screwdrivers in my tackle bag. These can be important when out on the water and unexpected loose screws appear. You can also use a small screwdriver to check the torque of any accessible screws. This quick and easy practice will prevent over tight screws that could strip threads. Unfortunately, workers on new reel assembly lines tend to be over precautious. This tends to leave screws too loose as opposed to getting them too tight. Losing just one screw can often result in permanent damage to your reel or losing precious parts. Depending on the age of your rig, these parts may or may not be replaceable. Most instances of loose parts or screws usually occur on one of the first outings with the new reel. If you are unsure of your mechanical capabilities, you can go to any specialty tackle shop for assistance. They will check the screws for proper torque at no charge.
If you are one of the few, the proud, the master of the spinning reel, your approach can be slightly different. Spinning reels should be lubricated at the handle where the knob actually meets the handle. You can also address spinning reels where the bail arm meets the frame. You should check the alignment of your bail if it isn’t working right. Broken bail springs can cause a spinning reel to malfunction. However, a bent bail can create problems as well. At the end where the bail attaches to the reel, it must seat squarely and properly for things to function properly. Many of us tend to get in a hurry before blast off and occasionally drop our gear. Dropping a spinning reel is a sure fire way to damage things and creates problems. Fortunately, most bails are made of a bendable metal and can be carefully bent back into place, solving the problem.
Just as I experienced on the water, our rods are just as important. Let’s not forget to give our rods the once over as well. Fortunately, there isn’t much mechanics to go over here. All parts of the rod are pretty basic. The main shaft of the rod should be crack and bend free. Look for any splinters in the body that could snag or cut your line. Don’t forget to check your rod guides. Depending on the manufacturer of your rod, you may have metal or porcelain guides. Extended use on metal guides tends to cause a groove in the bottom of the guide. This can cause the guide to cut into your line. If your rod is equipped with ceramic guides, be on the lookout for cracks in them. Cracks are another problem that can cause a cut in your line. This problem can cost you money or even a tournament when trying to land a big fish. Also ensure your check the system that secures the reel to the rod. Grit and debris can also find its way in this area as well. Nothing can be as embarrassing as going for that special cast and watching as your reel goes further than your lure. Then as your partner laughs, you pull the reel in using whatever line was left on the rod.
All this sounds time consuming and a bit complicated to some. However, when the weather just won’t cooperate, break out the gear and get prepared. Throw an old towel out on the coffee table and take care of business while watching your favorite fishing show or even a football game. Remember, just because we might not be out on the water, we are still fishermen. Get your gear ready to go.